Taff's Well

And so from the awesomeness of the Gap to Taff's well the polluted traffic fumed crag of Cardiff. i have to say I am not so fussed on this venue of climbing, it appears very loose with objective dangers ready to crash on your head from 60m above, also the rock is very flowy with very few positive holds. The exception to this is at the extremities of the crag, where I have, due to lack of motor transport and thus relying on train, found myself working a few projects. Climbing with my old climbing partner Olly (for once!) we tried the excellent 6b No Bear, No Fear which we both dogged at the crux, not bad for first attempt. I then returned to my project which I believe is called Good Gear, Good Cheer a 6b, that I have tried 4 separate times now. I managed to finally get on this ascent! (about time!),  I went pretty strong through the first crux over the overhang with a high left foot and searching left hand and then proceeded to have a good rest on the ledge just above. Clipping the last bolt appears to be the crux and the place that I always dogged it on my previous attempts. It involves a very side pully left hand matched with a very high left foot and then a quick and desperate pulling through of the rope to clip! After that it is a question of layback on two side pulls to jugs, and relief at the top. I am very glad I finally got it! however compared to the routes in the Gap I would argue that the route may be harder than what it is labeled in the poorly described topo, I would argue that it deserves at least 6b+! To finish the day a meadering pace was set up D'ya Hear Ma Dear 6a+ which was a doodle though Olly still managed to dog it with the stupidest jump for a hold I have ever seen! Then it was just a a question of whether we could beat the rain before we got on the train! we did, but only just. Another awesome and fulfilling day out!