The Gap!

The club visited the best crag in all of South Wales on tuesday! Although I have been there nearly five times previously, this was the first time that I have actually tried the  all too famous sport section of the crag. What have I been missing out on! It is gorgeous! fingery and steep, of excellent quality throughout. The first route I tried was a nice 6a+ Kabuto Mushi which was steep, moving off small but positive crimps with some big moves in between, you really had to place those feet! After this there was a little bit of a dog fest, pumping out on the last move of Bluster (6a+) and pumping every move of Yikes (6b+) which was the only truly dire route to be found in the quarry. Then comes One Track Mind, (how very apt) on which I watched Mark make his very first 7a lead ascent, bloody good going! I tried this on top rope after jumping off Yikes and was very surprised to find that it was by no mean that bad at all, each move was hard but with positive holds all the way it was a question of pump, and of balls with big swings even on top rope if one was to fall. I got the onsight for it! and so now Im tempted, too very tempted to go back for my first 7a lead as well! after that, I had one failing go at the the disgustingly named Turd Strangler (6c+) Which I must say seem additionally very do-able, having worked out the first crux, (two simultaneous side pulls and some high feet)  it is only the second crux that eludes me. Also a mini whipper of the top ensured that the route remains very high on my 'your going down' list of climbs. In all an amazing amazing amazing evenings cragging leaving me with the very painful choice of trying the scary 7a or the technical 6c+ on lead next time. I think I may have to man up and go for the 7a....