Friday 24 April 2009

Castell Coch and Taffs Well

Andy Foster and I recently headed down to Castle Quarry, for him to check out my new route, Games of Ambivalence and me to do a bit more filming for Ryan's and my movie Playing Games. Stupidly, despite the blazing sunshine all week, the route was even seepier than when I originally climbed it! Nevertheless, Andy racked up, with my quickdraws + one nut to place on the top bolt that is still devoid a hanger, and got prepped for what we hoped would be the second ascent. Unfortunately Andy didn't get the route clean but with two or three rests; partly due to the still pretty messy holds and the seepage in the middle of the route but also because the route is hard! He reckoned Games would be about 6b if dry, thinking the crux was the powerful lunge between the second and third bolts. he also reckoned the technical sequence just after the third bolt was worthy of 6b as one would have to think quite fast on the onsight attempt to read it correctly.

Andy's assessment makes me feel happy with my grading at 6b+, I am also content with the hour and a bit films footage I've got of this route, hopefully I can make something out of it for my film now! We also had a few climbs at Taffs Well proper in which I dogged quite a lot of stuff but was still happy with the progress I am making into getting back into the whole outdoors scene.

DWS here I come!

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