Finding the Lost Crag of Ynysyboeth

"Possibly the most obscure crag on sandstone" (South Wales Guidebook 2004:478), Ynysyboeth is certainly one of the most inaccessible crags to find in South Wales. From Cardiff, one has to get a train for 30 minutes to Abercynon then walk another 30 minutes to the Gap. From here, ramble over the hill and then down the other side. A losing fight with a hill of bracken ensues; don't wear shorts! The crag is on the right.

Incline Top. Photo Jamie Maddison

Now that you have fought you're way here, you'll be wondering why exactly anyone would bother coming here; well, that is South Wales for you. The routes climbed by Goi back in 1992 have largely been covered in sheets of ivy and the remainder of the lines seems a bit broken at the top for traditional lines. After a bit of cleaning it could be an average grade sports crag but with such difficult access its is unlikely to see any immediate development in the near future.

An undeveloped face at Ynysyboath Photo Jamie Maddison

It may not have the best routes (or indeed any routes), however oddly enough Ynysyboeth does have a rare example of a good quality sandstone, freestanding boulder. On this, there is one route of quite exceptional quality on the leaning square arete;

Laughing and Forgetting , V4 (maybe even harder?) A short but powerful problem. From low crimps, position your feet very carefully, then dyno to the flake. Finish easily. To do this problem statically using the tiny crimps and pinches on the arete itself would be an phenomenal feat.

Jamie on Laughing and Forgetting, Photo Jamie Maddison

So, Conclusions? Goi sent these routes in 1992, perhaps in 2022 somebody will brave the bracken once again to try my own route there, somehow I doubt it. At least the wildlife is nice, I saw a fox, a kestrel and lots of sheep :)

By contrast; a place that should definitely see further development is Abercynon High Buttress. This outcrop is on the other side of the hill adjacent to the Gap and has a selection of low levels boulders that look ripe for some awesome problems. I will keep you posted about any further developments here!