Thursday 6 November 2008

Abercynon - New Boulder Problems!

Work Sucks. It truly does. And so to save myself from such boredom I ran away into the valleys to have an adventure and an exploration. Shame the weather was so rubbish! Luckily, the crag I discovered was well worth the rain.  Hidden away amongst the trees, the venue is all but impossible to see from the road (I'm keeping the exact whereabouts hush-hush for the minute). But as you approach, suddenly all the bracken and shrubbery drop away and the climber finds themselves in a little boxed quarry cut out from the surrounding hillside. Around 5 metres tall, it provides very highball problems; a welcome change from the small boulders usually found around South Wales. It does however, need a very very good cleaning before most of the lines can be sent. I managed to send two extremely good lines today - despite the rain - on the smaller section of the crag, these are detailed below. Hopefully I will return soon, armed with a brush, some shears and good weather to start trying the remaining lines that are in abundance there! 


1.) Arriva - V2: (sit start) On the arete of the furthest left boulder (Topos to follow), use a series of jugs to pull over the overhang and onto the slightly greener finish.   F.A Jamie Maddison 06/11/2008


Jamie on the first ascent of Arriva 06/11/2008

2.) Loner: v3/4 - (sit start) A desperately awkward problem. From sitting, go over the widest point of the roof, utilizing a stomach scraping thrutch to reach a sustainable position and then an easy finish. F.A Jamie Maddison 06/11/2008


A rubbish video showing an early attempt at Loner 

A Future Problem? 

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