An interesting night at Boulders.

What a fun and bizarre time this afternoon was! As mentioned in my previous post, Hannah and I had been asked to model for a promotional movie/photography for Boulder Indoor Climbing Wall. And so we poodled down at 5 with the promise of free entry into the wall, a free staff t-shirt and the chance to have a go at the brand new routes set by famous climber Tim Emmett for the bouldering competition that was being held that evening; with all this going on how could we say no! And It was such a good, interesting and funny time the whole afternoon! To start, I had to lead the 6a jug-fest surmounting the biggest overhang in the place, whilst being filmed by two different cameramen. Conscious of lots of lenses zoomed in on me, technique seemed of paramount importance; unfortunately I still managed to cut loose (luckily in a controlled fashion) twice going over the lip of the overhang. The roof was lots of fun but highlighted my weakness in my upper body strength when it comes to listing roofs. I think I will have to get on them on lead more in the future; as Rob said today 'train your weaknesses' - its sound advice and if I do train on them, maybe it will help push up my outdoor grade into the much sought after - at least by me- E1 status. Hannah then lead a nifty 5+ just under the person filming for some interesting shooting; Hannah is getting a good climber and it was a pleasure to watch her lead. Next came some quality acting, if I do say so myself, rainbow-ing up a corner system but throwing as many layback, pivots, egyptians and slow motions movements into the routine as possible, making it look more like poncey ballet than real climbing. The cameraman seemed impressed though, so hopefully it was all worth it! Hannah then actually had a play with the camera! having completed her last route the guy gave her the film camera so she could record her being lowered down by me; interesting idea, wonder if it will actually look good? We then got passed on to the team's photographer, who liked to complain a lot about the lack of light in the room. One of the instructors hoisted him halfway up the wall and then Hannah spent the next 40 minutes (or so it seemed) hanging onto the wall on lead pulling all sorts of different poses whilst her arms got more and more pumped. Looks like she will be the new face of Boulders! All the photos taken of me, involve me being in the background, illuminated by a halogen lamp straight into my eyes, belaying Hannah. Im not convinced that they are going to be my best climbing pictures!

Then just like that, we were done!

We stayed a little bit longer, had a play on the boulder problems, which were interesting enough, but I think I was a little too tired to fully appreciate how good they are. I also got my 6b+ that I failed on yesterday. Whats' more, apart from the very top crux it all seemed very easy to me; it must mean I'm getting better! What I have noticed about my climbing recently is that my technique has improved significantly. Alongside this, my ability to shake out on not very big, but quite positive holds, has really lead to me shooting through grades all of a sudden. Hopefully within a few weeks I will be able to redpoint 6c! If this happens, then bring on the outdoors because a lot of new routes will suddenly be open to me. Yes!

To sum up; a really fun, interesting and esoteric day! Wonderful!

Lazy Posting!

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Boulders

What an inspiring night! Got a 'V6' Boulder problem in the Bouldering room and managed my technical one move wonder top rope project, which has improved my confidence no end for some hard leading Ill by doing when I next come back (having paid for four month unlimited entry). All this with still time to teach, eat a panini, have a coffee and take one hundred and fifty photographs! Here is a selection of some of the photo's taken last night; sorry there isn't more but I'm running out the door for a nine o'clock lecture as we speak! Ciao x  

Indoor Climbing Photography

Photos' courtesy of Olly

Boiler Slabs: First Trip!

The Freshers' Fair!

Ikaria - New Routes

The article today takes a bit of a retrospective jump, back to Seyshells Beach in Ikaria for a write up of a few choice bouldering problems sent whilst out visiting my girlfriend in Greece. Unfortunately, due to my lack of climbing equipment (only a pair of holey shoes and a chalkbag) and an accident involving a moped that happened later that day, this was the only day I really managed to get any quality problems sent. The rock was interesting, very similar to the granite of the alps but not as polished and perfected as its French equivalent. The lines are superb; unique, absorbing and always varied. I just wish I had had a mat as they were often massively highball! Below is a few picture topos of the new routes, though these hardly represent all the bouldering, or indeed traditional routes that are to be found in abundance around the Seyshells area. Due to the passing of time and my forgetful memory, I have named but not graded any of the routes. However, they were all well within my limit of climbing and thus must never have really strayed beyond V2. Though the easy grading absolutely does not detract from the stunning problems that are to be found there!

One: Morning Star

Two: Terra Nova

Three: 'Its OK, It doesn't hurt at the moment'

Four: Immature Resistance

Five: Unintelligent Design 

Six: Pocket Socket